FrouFrou 4 YouYou

Chicago Millinery History: Marshall Field and Co’s Forum of International Fashion February 24, 2016

imageSpring 1946 was the first season post WorldWarII when Amrican women could look forward to fashion without the constraints of rationing and serious shortages of options. Marshall Field and Company was ready and raring to go. Some ingenious planning was bringing seventeen US and international designers to the 28 Shop of the State Street store. The Forum of International Fashion was introduced to the public with a full page advertisement in the Chicago Tribune on April 7, 1946, followed each day with an almost full page ad to announce that day’s designer.

To put things in context, after the Forum ad for each day, several other fashion ads are included. Other retailers were not about to let all the attention and discretionary spending go to Marshall Field and Co.

image

image

The names of some of the famous designers are not very familiar 70 years later. Others have stood the test of time, such as the first designer, Elsa Schiaparelli.

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

April 8 Elsa Schiaparelli

Italian designer, working in Paris, known for artistic, out of the box creations, and her legacy of the color Shocking Pink.ย https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elsa_Schiaparelli

image.jpeg

Other ads for April 8:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

April 9 Pauline Trigere
French designer, working in New York, who worked for Hattie Carneige before going solo.ย https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pauline_Trigรจre

image

Others ads for April 9:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

4/10 Alix Gres
French designer, working in Paris, who claimed her greatest accomplishment was finding Rodier jersey. Also known as Madame Gres, tho her name was actually Germaine Emilie Krebs, and known as Alix Barton.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grรจs

image

Other ads for April 10:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

4/11 Nettie Rosenstein
American designer, working in New York, who created the inaugural gown for First Lady Mamie Eisenhower.ย https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nettie_Rosenstein

image

Other ads for April 11:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

April 12 Peter Russell
English designer working in London, he was best known for his suits. Sadly a name rarely, if ever, recalled these days.https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Russell_(fashion_designer)

image

Other ads ย for April 12:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

April 13 Omar Kiam

American designer, working in NY and Hollywood, he was known for movie creations till he left in 1941.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omar_Kiam

image

Other April 13 ย ads:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

Aprilย 14 Lucien Lelong
French fashion manufacturer, working in Paris. He worked with designer Pierre Balmain.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Lelong

small_201

Other April 14 ads:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

April 15 Norman Norell
New York designer who worked in costuming, then worked for Hattie Carniege from 1928 until 1941. After a partnership business, he went solo with much success. A vintage dress was worn by First Lady Michele Obama in 2010.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norman_Norell

image

Other April 15 ads

image

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

April 16 Pierre Balmain
French designer, who worked in Paris, with several fragrances still worn today. He is known for having recognized the talent of Karl Lagerfeld, now head designer for Chanel, as well as Fendi.ย https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Balmain

image

Other April 16 ads:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

April 17 Jo Copeland
American designer, who was well regarded for her After Five designs.
http://marybawa.com/historyofashion/copeland.html

small_019

Other April 17 ads:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

April 18 Anthony Blotta
American designer, known for wool suits and coats.
http://vintagefashionguild.org/label-resource/blotta-anthony/

normal_003

Other April 18 ads:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

April 19 Germaine Legroux
Nothing is found online.

image

Other ads April 19:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

April 20 Angele Delanghe
Belgian designer working in London, known for soft tailoring.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angele_Delanghe

image

Other April 20 ads:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

Marshall Field and Co did not take the day off from the Forum, even tho it isย Sunday. Easter Sunday, no less, when many of the finest fashions were worn with pride.

4/21 Adrian, just Adrian. He was one of the most legendary American designers.

American designer, working in Hollywood, known for work in films, the red slippers for Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz, and his own couture house.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adrian_(costume_designer)

image

Ads and the magazine cover from the paper April 21:

image

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

April 22 Hardy Amies
London designer, SIR Edwin Hardy Aimes, best known as official dressmaker to Queen ElizabethII.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardy_Amies

image

One April 22 ad, and a back page spread of what was worn that Easter Sunday:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

April 23 Hattie Carnegie
Viennese designer, working in New York, known for her head to hem concept of dressing women, as she started as a milliner. She recognized the talents of Norman Norell, Pauline Trigere, and James Galanos.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hattie_Carnegie

image

Other April 23 ads:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

April 24 Balenciaga
Spanish designer, working in Paris, known for evening wear. Also noted is Balenciaga brown, introduced by Marshall Field and Co in 1938. One rarely hears of it much in this century, unlike the Shocking Pink of Schiaparelli.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balenciaga

image

Other April 24 ads:

image

image

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

And so we end the Forum of International Fashion from Marshall Field and Co. ย Chicago certainly did have a moment in the sun for fashion in 1946.

๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ๐ŸŒบ

Advertisements
 

Chicago Millinery History: Spring 1956 January 26, 2016

image

Spring is headed for Chicago in 1956 and it will be most welcome. March advertisements in the Chicago Tribune newspaper tease readers with fresh new coats and hats. Clearly too soon to be worn just yet, tho the temperature was predicted to be mid 50s, on March 1. This is warm enough to happily anticipate the warmth of spring soon to come. Easter arrives April 1, so it is not too soon to decide just what hat to wear.

The Fair features a large expanse of fabric coat, but the icing on the cake is a cherry hat. Roberta Bernays designs run $12.98, in seven colors, including Dior blue, available on the third floor Millinery Salon. For the cherry lover these would have been a bargain, as later in the week one would have to go to Evanston or Highland Park to Edgar A. Stevens to pick their cherry hats from $27.50-$35.

Carson, Pirie, Scott and Co has a three day special of hats for a mere $8. But if you wanted a real bargain of a white hat, head to Sears for the $2.55 sale!

image

For those with deeper pockets there is excitement at Mandel Bros on March 1, and March 2 in the French Room, on 5, at the State St store. Russ Russell, a Chicago milliner, will be sharing his “Portrait of a Lady” hats, ranging from $29.50-$45.

image

Some more devoted to high fashion would want to wait a bit to see the newest fromย Paris. Rea Steeger reports “From Paris to Chicago by Air” features Givenchy, Dior, Fath, and Sven creations. The high end copies and originals would likely show up at Marshall Field’s within a few short weeks.

 

March 2, a Friday, had only one hat shown, at Charles A. Stevens, for $10.95. Friday newspapers focused on food and all the grocery ads to send the homemaker in the right direction for Kraft Velvetta cheese, one pound for $.47.

image

March 3, Saturday has nine hats shown, within a feature on suits, showing interest for suits in the back as well as the front. This article in the Today With Women pages, shows fashions sold at Charles A. Stevens.

image

March 4, and things improve with the Sunday paper. A $3.98 lilac hat at Lane Bryant, and a $3.19 hat at Goldblatt’s department store. The paper features many mid price and lower department store multiple page ads. Great if you are looking for furniture or household items, not great for hats.

The Fair showed one for $7.95 by Chapeaux Louise, and Hats by Sue showed a hatbox, stating hats were $5-$25.

The Wilson Hat Shop on S. Ashland had one hat featured for $10.95.

The 53year old Gately’s dept store on the south side was showing a small hat for $5.98.
Jan Bark, who created hats in Chicago, was doing a special appearance at The Fair with a hat shown priced at $16.95.

image

Stanley Korshak has a striking hat with scarf for $39.50.

image
The best news is offered by Carson, Pirie, Scott, who will be starting a series of fashion shows, featuring millinery as of Tues. March. 6, at the Empire Room of the Palmer House. Although the 3/4 page ad mentions the show, the drawings are of dresses by Mollie Parnis, Herbert Sondheim, Anna Miller, Harvey Berin, Oleg Casinni, and Adele Simpson. Some of the names are still well recognized today.

March 5, Monday starts a new fashion week. Saks Fifth Avenue is showing Coconut Meringues, priced at $17.95 for a Blinker Bonnet, and $18.95 for a Breton, in navy, white, black or beige. They could be found in Moderate Priced Hats on the 5th floor at 669N. Michigan Ave.

 

image.jpeg
Bonwit Teller, at 830N. Michigan Ave featured a daisy chain hat for $35 by Irene of New York, in white, yellow, pink, navy and black. The best part was one could meet Irene while in store Tues or Wed.
Mandel Bros shows a $29.50 Model T Skimmer Straw. On the other hand the Today With Women article shows a photo of a very similar hat, again called a Model T, by Irene of New York at her appearance at Bonwit Teller in white, certainly priced higher than the Mandel Bros one.

image
Marshall Field’s Budget Store has rolled out all the stops with $3.30 hats.

 

image
Carson, Pirie, Scott and Co has gone all out with a full page ad, showing hats and shoes. The hats were by Sally Victor for $79.50, Sam Budwig for $20, Mr. Arnold for $45, Mr. Phil for $20, Wm. Silverman for $29.50, and Chanda for $69.50.

March 6, reveals Maurice L. Rothschild has told of an upcoming fashion show Wed, March 7, of hats, including their own line of Ronnie hats. Also to be shown by Miss Mary Wyman, a NY hat stylist, were those of Mr. Arnold, H. Howard Hodge, Alfreda, Gardner, Helen Joyce, Mr. John Jr, Chanda, Phil Strann, Silverman and Adrienne. For added allure would be 3 hats awarded as door prizes. A special pair of photos by the newspaper show 2 hats to be included in the event; one a Pilgrim Breton by Mr. Arnold for $55, and Salad Bowl by Ronnie for $15.
Other ads have a straw swathed in organza shown by Saks Fifth Ave from $25-$29.95.
Kay’s Millinery Supply 17 N. Wabash, ( formerly 320 Michigan Ave) has sample hats $2 -$5, as well as flowers from $.10-$.50.

 

March 7 has only one small hat ad from Stevens for a little “belt and buckle” hat for $7.95. The real interest for fashion reading is the article by Rea Steeger on the narrow silhouette. Photos are shown of a narrow skirted suit at Carson, Pirie, Scott and Co, gowns at Bonwit Teller and Elizabeth Arden, and one photo of a large oversize inverted bowl of a hat, from Elizabeth Arden. Elizabeth Arden? Yes, from the 1910 cosmetic company, which was started by Florence Nightingale Graham of Canada, who dropped out of nursing school to move to NY and follow her dream. The fashion show, sponsored by the Chicago Fashion Group, was held at the Morrison Hotel, built in 1925, but torn down in 1965 for the First National Bank Building.

March 8ย Cherries on hats are now appearing on hats at Sears, for $3.99.
A full page hat ad for Marshall Fields shows six hats priced $13.95 to $69.50.
Mandel Bros has an $8.95 trio of hats “Snow White dwarfs all others for Easter”, including a hat with the hottest trend, cherries.

image

March 9 took a break from hats in the newspaper, but then March 10 made up for it.
Carson, Pirie, Scott and Co has a vine covered cloche for $7.95, but their real story is a fashion show for teens, including several hats mentioned and shown. The article mentions teens are invited and it will be “complete with soft drinks on the house.” The hats shown at the event were Betmar and Madcaps priced from $5.95-$7.95.

image

March 11 is a big day for advertising household items, and a pink washer and dryer for $339 shows a woman in her suit and hat heading out for the afternoon as she is now free from the time consuming ways of the old days to handle that laundry chore. It is hard to be tempted by the “sissy sailor” hat by Jane Morgan for $6.98 at Madigan’s, when there is a PINK washer and dryer to be purchased.

Lane Bryant lilac hats for $6.98 look just like the hat they advertised on March 4, or perhaps lilacs were such a big hit they bought more, though at a higher price.
The main article of the Women’s page is “Spectacular Hats For Spring Call for Brighter Eye Makeup: Don’t Look All Hat and No Face,” by Eleanor Nangle.ย The photos show two hats by Tatiana of Saks Fifth Ave, and one each from Emme, Mr.ย John of John Frederic’s, and Laddie Northridge.

March 12, has an ad from Weiboldts for a Doree wide brim hat for $18.95, but it probably gained far less attention than the ones from The Fair.
The Fair advertises a hat by John Frederic’s for $52.50. Hats ranged from $ 15.95 to $69.50. Names mentioned also included Vincent deKoven, Leslie James, Schiaparelli, Suzy Lee, Agnes, H. Howard Hodge, Adrienne, and John Andrews.

A news insert photo is captioned with an enticement to a striped beret and scarf set at Lytton’s Chapeaux Boutique, for $13.95.

image

March 13 Marshall Field’s full page “Pace” ad reveals great pride as customers are invited to the first and only U.S. appearance of noted Parisian milliner, Svend. Svend was from Denmark tho studied in France, before having shops in Denmark and Sweden. He had worked with Jacques Fath, before striking out on his own. Five hat photographs reveal all different designs. Even if purchasing a hat was not in the budget, one could attend a fashion show of his hats in the Walnut Room for only $1.50.

The day before an import fashion show had been held at the Mayfair Room of the Sheraton Blackstone Hotel, where 250 women had the first glimpse of Svend and his hats, along with a primarily Dior clothing presentation.

image
Carson, Pirie, Scott and Co also had a full page ad, of “Oh, those beautiful blondes.” Featuring pearls, gloves, handbags, hose, all in shades of white, plus one hat for $16.95. Very lovely ad, but not nearly as exciting as a real live Parisian milliner.

March 14 had plenty of ads for mink stoles, but hats were absent. March 15 shows a hat at Kerman’s on Michigan Ave for $12.95, but it barely holds your attention once you see the Carson, Pirie, Scott and Co ad for Miss Lee. The noted Chicago television personality would be present for two showings of hats, and the event was to include a contest for one of ten Sam Budwig hats. To win, one had to provide a written entry response to “Why I Like the BIG change in hats.”
Weiboldt’s placed a half page ad with seven hats ranging from $6.99 -$15.99.

March 16 includes a different approach to hat shopping, the mail order. A little ad with a form to complete and mail in to Bonwit Teller at 830 N. Michigan Ave, and $7.95 brings you a rose covered headband hat by Brod. Many colors to select from, or perhaps one should get a few different ones. If a trip to the store was possible, they could found on the first floor in the Headband Dept. They must have stocked a great many to call it a whole department.

Hat reporting and ads took a day off on March 17, though plenty of green ones were most likely worn, it was St. Patrick’s Day. March 18 and the Sunday Tribune brought out far more ads, as now Easter was just 2 weeks off. Goldblatt’s has hats for $6, and Lord’s in Evanston has an $18 platter style hat. While in Evanston, or up in Highland Park, the Edgar A. Stevens had a $15 capulet of flowers. Hats by Sue has another ad this month, for those who shopped north side local on Irving Park or Central.
Big things are happening downtown, tho. Bonwit Teller will have Miss Emme present Monday, and Marshall Field’s State St store shall have the hot designer, Laddie Northridge.

image

Where to go first? Since the Chicago Tribune Magazine insert article on Easter fashion shows a charming $95 Laddie Northridge hat, Marshall Filed’s probably had a better turnout. They also had a Lilly Dache hat for $98, and a Mr. John for $75 shown too.

 

March 19 has a full page ad for Carson Pirie Scott with hats from $10-$49.50, including hats by Louis of California, Sam Budwig and Mr. John.
Stevens little ad shows a $7.98 number. Mandel Bros has a hat for $14.95, but of interest is their Easter Coupon book for $25. One bought the coupon book on credit to be paid off over months, to purchase Easter clothing and accessories. By the time the hat is paid off, it is out of style.

Weibolt’s has hats $7.99 and $8.99, with The Fair $7.98, and Maurice L. Rothschild at $12.99.

Best news yet? Goldblatt’s has CHERRY hats for $3.99.

image

Today is the day many have waited for, the full page article on women’s hats with flowers, showing a selection of nine flowered beauties. Front and center is a Laddie Northbridge at Marshall Fields. The others are Mr. Fred of John-Frederics at Bramson, and the pretty things at Martha Weathered, Carson, Pirie, Scott and Co, Charles A Stevens, Mandel Bros, Bonwit Teller, and Saks Fifth Ave.

Pickings are slim, as March 20 shows no hat ads, and March 21 has only one fromย Charles A. Stevens for $29.98.

March 22 has one wondering if Bonwit Teller has hit on a marketing miracle as this week again they have a mail in ad for a hat, a straw Breton for $8.95 by Jauntee.

image

Also advertising is Saks Fifth Avenue with a $22.95 “white lace cobweb.”

image

March 23 and March 24 have no ads, but do not fret, March 25 boasts a Bonwit Teller Balenciaga hat for $45 of blue meringue glacรฉ with pleats. Goldblatt’s has $7.99 and $9.99 hats as the only others shown.
March 26 has Mandel Bros for $16.95, and Carson Pirie Scott and Co for $8.95.

image

March 27 has nothing, but fortunately Marshall Filed’s has saved an ad for March 28. The $20 Lemington hat is a “1956 revival of the 1910 cloche.” It looks nothing like what we would call a cloche today. It appears more like an oversized pillbox that comes down over the brow with an indented crown.

For anyone who avoided hat shopping things are getting down to the wire. March 29 only shows a $ 8.95 blonde hat at Edgar A. Stevens, up in Evanston or Highland Park, or $5 straws at The Fair.

March 30 is Good Friday, and not a big fashion shopping day, with food featured in ads to get the holiday meal goodies. March 31 is the last chance for those who have neglected things far too long, although there are no hat ads to show you where to find your hat.

image

Perhaps what you are really looking for is an after Easter bargain. Sunday April 1 does not disappoint. Goldblatt’s has 50,000 hats for $2 each. YES, $2. But if you wished you had purchased that Lane Bryant Lilac hat, never fear, it is back again at $3.99

 

Chicago Millinery History: Brucewood by Maurice L. Rothschild September 4, 2014

005

The season in Chicago is almost turning into Fall, since Labor Day is over. Time to start thinking about felt and velvet hats. And the pretty things that adorn them.

007

Putting flowers on a felt hat is a long established tradition. This probably 1940s hat has a grouping of flowers that adds just the right accent. Sometimes the theory that less is more has it’s place in the world. Many of us would love to cover a hat with more, but back in the 40s it was a conservative time during the WWII years. Luckily even tho many supplies were rationed, and buying an entire new outfit was less common, ladies still loved a new hat.

This hat was from Chicago, tho many may no longer recall the label of Brucewood of Maurice Rothschild. This is the only Brucewood to cross my path, and it would be great to know more.

012

The hat is from the store of Maurice L. Rothschild, a long standing company of mens and womens fashions, tho long gone.

008

009

 

Chicago Millinery History: Raymond Hudd’s Paper Ephemera July 16, 2014

raymond hudd items with Ivan 2014 007

A couple of years ago it was a thrilling day when Ivan, Raymond Hudd’s brother gifted a part of the collection of memorabilia papers, news clippings, binder of correspondence exchanged, and assorted photos. This week he returned with the bulk of the goodies. Before he left on another leg of his journey, I took photos of the things that returned with him.
Here is an assortment of the treasures that will return to California:
raymond hudd items with Ivan 2014 008
raymond hudd items with Ivan 2014 034

raymond hudd items with Ivan 2014 031
raymond hudd items with Ivan 2014 083

raymond hudd items with Ivan 2014 246
raymond hudd items with Ivan 2014 247

 

Chicago Millinery History: School of the Art Institute of Chicago Millinery Awards 2014 May 8, 2014

011The annual awards for millinery were held May7, 2014 at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. A large array of pieces, with great range of style. The faculty wizard of many things, Eia, arranged an enlightening event. (Please click on each photo to see it in it’s entirety.)

Glad I was not in the judge seat for this event. Fortunately a former Raymond Hudd award winner, Angela Morano was on the panel.
The items on display were so abundant that two classrooms were used for display. Some works were from students who had only taken one class, and others have had more than that.

IF I had won the lottery before heading downtown, I would have wanted to take a few home. In no particular order they would be:
The Dupioni silk at the top of the page really caught my eye.

002024
017018021

If I could give an award myself for best display I loved the sense of imagination used to create a worldly travel by this milliner:
008
009

If I could give an award for student with the awareness that presentation is even more than the hats on the table, it is this student who had 4 wonderful pieces, but is showing how to make this unique cream satin headdress wearable:
035

Lovely hat, best mannequin head.

Lovely hat, best mannequin head.

And finally the table of hats by a milliner who had a large body of work, with temptations to my partner guest attendees, Lorraine and Iris:020

When you look at Iris, Lorraine and Angela, you can tell they are in their element:
050

Raymond Hudd would have been proud of all the creations.

 

Chicago (almost) Millinery History: The Milliners of Etsy show-The Hat and the Little Black Dress 2013 June 12, 2013

010

Three Oaks, MI has a wonderful theater, The Acorn. This was the site of the first runway show of hats from the Milliners of Etsy. This team of creative women took a step forward with the first runway show featuring the hats from milliner attendees, as well as a representative hat from many members across the globe.

The little black dresses were a wide variety of styles but all served to compliment the hats, the focus of the show. Each milliner featured had a maximum of ten hats worn for all to admire. Before the collection of each milliner the announcements were made by the Master of Ceremony, Charles Busch.
The event was only possible through the efforts of team captain Emily Moe, along with Amanda Joyner, and Belle McCluskey. Essential to the production was Anna Lee, David Fink and Becky Thomas of The Acorn, Elle Salon, Danielle Mitchell, F. David Roth, Cheyne Little and Etsy. This was choreographed by Paul Abrahmson of the Chicago Ballet, and the music was under the skillful hand of Mr. Moe.

Behind the scene shots show models and milliners preparing for this event. Wonderful women with the courage to walk the runway, they are beautiful inside and out, but the transformation of hair and makeup was left to the experts. They are as much artists in their own right as the milliners.

055058063074080

Following the program the Journeyman Distillery next door hosted the tables of hats for attendees to admire and purchase. A photographer, was on hand to do portraits to add to the fun. Delicious baked goodies were provided by Mr. Micheal Joyner and Bowlerman Confections.

087091088099

Hats from Chicago on the runway were from Cindy Kalnow and Jenny Pfanenstiel.
My favorite hat? One by Jenny Pfanensteil of Forme Millinery:
108

Wish you could have been there, but would like a piece of the action? The posters and the T shirts with the watercolor image from the Milliner of Etsy team will be available for sale.

 

Chicago Millinery History: Marshall Field’s State Street-Part 2 April 13, 2013

In Part 1 on the topic of Marshall Field’s State Street store there was attention given to the Visitor Center of the now Macy’s and their nod to history.

For women of elegance and means the highlight of the store was the 28 Shop.

The author of “State Street: One Brick at a Time”, by Robert Ledermann, takes us into the opening of the shop on September 30, 1941. A gala affair was held, including outdoor searchlights, ala Hollywood movie openings. A butler announced arrivals, who had been sent engraved invitations. 500 invitations were sent. It is likely not too many women chose to skip this event. A new hat, and ensemble would have been needed for such a public affair.

The name 28 Shop is derived from the private entrance at 28 Washington, with direct elevator access to the 6th floor area. Both Mr. Ledermann, and Gayle Soucek in her book “Field’s: The Store That Built the City” discuss the design by Joseph Platt, who also designed the set for Gone With the Wind, a movie of no little fame. The large room had 28 dressing rooms with decor that could only be considered opulent. A favorite part of the description is of lace covered ceilings in some of the rooms. Lunch could also be served, again another way to keep the customer happy, and potentially shopping…for hats.

A look at the entrance to the 28 Shop on April 10, 2013 gives us a modern day glimpse at the glamor inside. There is also a framed vintage photo of the salon in the early days. Below the photo are two comfortable chairs. One might expect those are for the men who patiently wait, even today, as women enter the world of high fashion.

Image

The look of current fashion greets the potential customer in a most modern setting.

Image

One who is on a mission of millinery tho is hard pressed to find any. The vintage photos on the wall shall have to do.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

And finally we find the one photo of a woman being fitted with a 1940s style tilt hat!

Image

Credit is due to the current designer for having the insight to acknowledge that millinery purchases were as important as the rest of the ensemble. Sadly there were no current hats on display in the department. Could one hope they had all been purchased and not yet replaced? Several display cases with handbags and other accessories were scattered through the area. It seems something must be done to bring back the hat. Here are a few photos of wonderful items that beg for just the right hat.

Image

Image

Image

Image

What hat in this store should be paired with this strong statement classic look jacket? I imagine another trip is needed to the first floor to see what is in stock. This writer is not a stylist, but could certainly suggest, if only there is a glimpse of hope to bring back the hat, into the famed 28 Shop on State Street.